Madeira 360°: Hiking & Canyoning on Europe's Wildest Atlantic Island

We check in at the hotel in Funchal, the island's capital, and the trip starts over dinner rather than out on a trail. Hungry yet? Funchal takes its name from the fennel that grows here in abundance, funcho in Portuguese.

• First dinner together: our first taste of Madeira is more likely fresh fish straight out of the Atlantic than fennel, eaten slowly while the group gets to know each other.

Adrenalin first thing! A river gorge before any town. With its water-carved gorges, waterfalls and lush vegetation, Madeira is considered the best in the world for this.

• Down the river: canyoning means descending a river by climbing, swimming, sliding and jumping.

After lunch and a chance to recover, we take the cars to Machico, Madeira's second largest city.

• Through the old centre: we walk the narrow streets of the town centre down to the seafront promenade, full of cafes.

• Bolo do caco and sunset: bolo do caco with a sea view, then sunset from the Francisco Alvares Nobrega Miradouro over Ponta de São Lourenço.

A dawn start, because the island where it is always spring keeps its very best scenery high above the coast.

• From Areeiro to Ruivo: the hike runs from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, about six hours of walking. Boots on early, and we let the views do the talking!

Pico Ruivo is the highest mountain on the island at 1862 metres. We hold a steady pace on the trail, fingers crossed for clear weather.

• The final push: one last climb to the summit. The overhangs are daunting, but the path is safe and handrailed.

• Lunch and back: a packed lunch, then the same trail back to the cars.

Another early start, for the north-western tip of the island.

• Cable car down the cliff: the steepest cable car in the European Union sits at Achadas da Cruz, plunging almost vertically for 450 metres down the dramatic cliff face to sea level.

• Farmland by the sea: below it, a different microclimate, with unspoilt farmland, small houses and traditional wine presses, plus a seaside promenade rated among the island's finest photo spots.

• A drink with the locals? Locals sometimes serve drinks at home for a donation.

Via Porto Moniz and its natural lava pools, we continue along the north-west coast.

• Time for the Fanal? If time allows, we detour to the Parque Florestal do Fanal, an ancient laurel forest cloaked in thick mist.

• A swim at Seixal: then the black-sand beach of Seixal and a plunge into the Atlantic Ocean at a pleasant 20 degrees.

• Last miradouro: the Véu da Noiva waterfall stays in the distance, with a miradouro stop before Funchal.

Hiking in the morning, sailing in the afternoon. Coast or inland?

• Out to the eastern tip? We can reach Ponta de São Lourenço, the easternmost point of the island, on a path over the Atlantic Ocean and red cliffs thick with vegetation.

• Or into the green? Alternatively we head inland and trek to Levada do Caldeirão Verde, which trades the cliffs and open water for the green middle of the island.

The afternoon is a three hour boat trip at sunset towards Cabo Girão.

• Snorkelling at anchor: we stop for snorkelling, with equipment on board and a drink for anyone staying dry.

South coast day, mostly from viewpoints. Got a head for heights?

• Starting from Câmara de Lobos: the town hosted Winston Churchill in 1950; from here we climb a little towards the vertigo test.

• On the glass at Cabo Girão: Cabo Girão looks over the entire southern coast from a glass platform 580 metres up, the highest ocean cliff in Europe and second in the world.

• Sunset at Ponta do Pargo: then the cars again to Ponta do Pargo, the westernmost point of the island, where the view is unrivalled and the sunset worth waiting for.

One last day on Madeira, with a cable car up and something considerably stranger on the way down.

• Cable car to Monte: the cable car climbs to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte, the island's most important pilgrimage site, with the view and the botanical gardens too.

• Down by toboggan: we come down by sledding, on toboggans first used at the beginning of the 19th century as public transport. Still the most epic descent here!

A free afternoon, then the farewell dinner.

• A stroll through the market? The Mercado dos Lavradores in central Funchal has the freshest fruit, flowers, intricate crafts and souvenirs.